Goldarth's Review

2006 was a great year for Patek Philippe, with their Ref. 5960 and Nautilus models being met with much adulation, and their 2007 debuts are set to further the brand's strong position. This year, Patek have expanded their vast collection with refined new versions of classic models as well as new debuts in the Gondolo range.



The Ref. 5159 perpetual calendar with retrograde flyback date (above) is a new grand complication officer's watch with a special, gold dust cover that protects the sapphire-crystal case back. Its 38 mm case houses a self-winding movement that powers a moon-phase display as well as a perpetual-calendar complication. The Ref. 5159 is one of the few watches to have a center sweep second hand, and its calendar function will remain accurate for 122 years and 45 days. Available in 18K yellow or white gold, with either a matte chocolate or matte dark brown alligator strap, the Ref. 5159 officer's watch is certainly one of the pieces to look out for in the coming months.



As the other new grand complication watch from Patek Philippe this year, the Ref. 5971 column-wheel chronograph with perpetual calendar (above) – which replaces the Ref. 5071 – has the added appeal of featuring 36 baguette-cut diamonds paving the circumference of the dial. Made from 950 platinum, the Ref. 5971 is where “haute joaillerie meets haute horlogerie”, as interpreted by Patek Philippe. The movement's base is made by Lémania exclusively for Patek Philippe, and is then further refined in the Geneva workshops, where a perpetual calendar grand complication is added. With its high level of finish in and out, its big, lustrous diamonds totaling four carats, and its refined, complex internals, the Ref. 5971 chronograph with perpetual calendar is the only haute joaillerie model in its Grand Complications category, making it a rarity that is sure to lure the avid collector.



Eighty years after the last watch of this series was introduced to the world, the new Ref. 5098 Chronometro Gondolo (above) is reborn. Named for the Gondolo & Labouriau jeweler in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, the Chronometro Gondolo has a curved, tonneau-shaped case housing a mechanical movement designed especially for this watch. Sporting a rhodiumed gold dial and two, black-oxidized gold hands, the platinum-cased watch is the essence of the perfect tonneau watch.



The Ref. 4934 Calatrava Travel Time for ladies (above) is another debut this year. Traveler's watches have till now focused on the male market, but the Ref. 4934 is set to change that. Behind the diamond-set bezel and the extravagant, intricate mother-of-pearl dial, the watch features a manually-wound movement with a dual time zone function. This is operated via the two push pieces on the case, and it superimposes the time at your destination alongside that of your home. Available in white or rose gold, the elegant Ref. 4934 is a beautiful as well as useful addition to Patek's growing collection of ladies' watches.



Ladies watches are a big part of Patek Philippe's repertoire, and the Gondolo Ref. 4949 (above) reinforces the brand's reputation as a superb maker of such timepieces. Featured on this watch is an innovative diamond arrangement that has the stones laid inside the case, along the bezel, and protected by the crystal. This enhances the sophisticated look of the watch, which has a white gold case with an embossed, braided pattern. With its accurate quartz movement, Top Wesselton diamonds, and innovative patterning process, the Ref. 4949 is elegant and novel at the same time.



Thirty years after the original Nautilus collection was released, Patek returned with a new Nautilus collection last year. For 2007, the Ref. 5711 basic model in steel is now joined by three new variants in 18K yellow, white, and rose gold (above) with color-coordinated leather straps and dials. The new gold Nautilus watches share the same features and dimensions as the 2006 Nautilus, but now have the unparalleled added appeal of precious metals.