Goldarth's Review

There was a number of great new watches from prolific and innovative Jaeger-LeCoultre. A dual-power reserve chronograph watch, a watch that needs no lubricant, and a range of extreme diver's watches were the highlights from Geneva's SIHH show of haute horlogerie. Highlight of this year's exposition for Jaeger-LeCoultre was their Duomètre à Chronographe “micro-mechanical masterpiece”. The “dual-wing” Caliber 380 has two power reserves independent from each other, with one powering the normal timekeeping functions of the watch while the other is dedicated to the chronograph function.



A jumping-seconds display with reset function also features in this watch. The movement is mechanical and hand-wound, and has a power reserve of 50 hours. Its white dial is framed by the pink gold case – also available in platinum (unlimited, like the red gold version) and yellow gold (limited to 300 pieces) – while the hands are a combination of gold (for the timekeeping function) and blued steel (for the chronograph). Note the opposing power reserve indication displays, which each have their own gauge; one in gold, the other in blue steel.



Another revelation from Jaeger-LeCoultre is the new Master Compressor Extreme LAB watch, which has the first mechanical watch movement in history to operate accurately and reliable without any lubricant in it. The new Jaeger-LeCoultre Caliber 988C has been reliable in testing to below 40 degrees Centigrade, even down to its (latest-generation) tourbillon regulator. The focus here is on the 988C’s advanced materials, and Jaeger have succeeded in somewhat revolutionizing the mechanical watch industry with the six patents filed on the Extreme LAB.







Also new for this year is a host of new models in the rugged Master Compressor range, with three new diving watches leading the charge. The Master Compressor Diving Pro Geographic, Master Compressor Diving Chronograph, and Master Compressor Diving GMT (above; top to bottom) are all professional divers’ watches capable of resisting extreme pressures, and also featuring a pulsometer that is necessary for diving underwater. The watches are powered by an automatic mechanical movement wrapped in a steel case that is water-resistant to 1000 meters below sea level.





Finally, the Master Compressor Extreme W-Alarm ‘46’ – named for the legendary Moto GP champion racer Valentino Rossi – is a sporty, or if need be, elegant wristwatch with a simultaneous display of the time in all 24 time zones, as well as a mechanical alarm function. The Caliber 912 automatic mechanical movement is protected from shock internally, and is concealed inside the rose gold or titanium case with a quick-change system for the strap, allowing you to go from race track mode to stylish dinner mode in a flash.