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  Columns > Ian Osterlof > Aging Wine in Barrels

   Published in: March 2007
 
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If you examine our archaeological history, it is difficult to find physical traces of oak barrels because it is unlikely that wood could survive the ravages of such a span of time. However, references to barrels can be found in old literature. In ancient times, barrels were surely used for the transportation of wine, as well as other liquids, and goods like salt.

So what makes barrels so precious to the winemakers of today? Among the different wood species, only oak possesses the right amount of tannins and positive flavors that so harmoniously interact with the wine during the wine and aging period. Other species of wood, such as chestnut, have been used in the past but are rarely used anymore. Large-sized chestnut vats are still used occasionally, however.

The timber for the barrels that I use at my vineyard in Minervois comes mostly from oak forests in France, but today you see more and more oak coming from Eastern European forests. There are four different places in France where oak trees are cut down to be made into barrels, and each of these regions – be it the forests of Nevers, Allier, or elsewhere – yields an oak with a distinct character because the soil differs a lot between these areas. Where the soil is clayey and poor in organic nutrients, oak tree growth is relatively slow, resulting in the wood having a “tight” grain, which is ultimately what most winemakers want for their wine barrels. Barrels like this give the wine a lot of aroma, but not too much in the way of tannins.

Wood from the oak tree is best for making wine barrels.

Soil that is clayey, chalky, and laden with granite gives a wood with a coarser grain. This results in barrels that make the wine less aromatic, and which extract a lot polyphenols, including tannins.

There is also American white oak, which is very popular to use. It contains a lower quantity of phenolic compounds than in European species, but has more coconut- and vanilla-like aromas. This tends to go very well with the softer, less concentrated Merlot grape, and less well with the more concentrated Syrah grape.

When the tree is cut down and split, it has to be laid out for between nine months and three years. The wood is thus dehydrated and matured. Left to the elements, the weather has a direct impact on the ultimate character of the timber. A lot of chemical reactions occur during this period that may enhance some flavors and diminish others. Also, the bitterness and astringency of the wood is softened in the process.

 
 
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