Central Otago is one of the most stunningly beautiful wine regions imaginable.
On the viticultural cusp as the world’s most southerly winemaking
region, it enjoys a Continental climate, the only place in New Zealand
to do so. Vineyards range from 200 to 450 meters above sea level.
Surprisingly warm in summer, it can be very cool throughout the rest
of the year. Growers live in constant fear of frosts. There is considerable
diurnal temperature variation (the difference between day and night).
Locals believe this contributes to the amazing flavor and intensity the
grapes achieve.
The annual rainfall is extremely low, around 300mm annually, a level
more often associated with the world’s deserts — especially amazing
when one considers that only a few hours drive away is Milford Sound,
the second wettest place on earth. Low humidity assists in the prevention
of disease and is presumably part of the reason why several wineries
have taken the biodynamic path. Site selection is key.
Pinot noir is undoubtedly the star performer, drawing international acclaim.
It dominates over almost 80 percent of the region. Pinot from Central
Otago is alluringly pure with glorious, bold fruit flavors. Rich and dense
with obvious varietal characters, aromatic and intense, these wines make
a statement.
There are some impressive chardonnays as well, though a few years ago,
pinot gris seemed likely to excel. The market’s uncritical acceptance
of this variety ensures its success, though some excellent ones are being
made. Then, riesling was little more than a curiosity. Now, riesling is
on the rise. The teeth-rattling acidity the region provides means that
most need to be balanced with a degree of sweetness but, assuming one
has no philosophical antipathy to this (think German as opposed to Australian
styles), there are some exceptional wines on offer. For riesling, seek out Carrick,
Mt Difficulty, Felton Road, Olssens, Mount Edward, and Amisfield. Low
humidity makes botrytis-affected wines almost impossible.
The vintage that sent the region’s pinot stocks soaring was 2002.
Many said it would never be bettered, a vintage that allowed all of the
bold expression that the region could muster to shine. I remain convinced
2003 was superior. The year 2002 was everything claimed, but these were
pinots for shiraz lovers - big wines and ideal for those looking to branch
into pinot. Wines from 2003 were sensual, full of finesse and delicacy,
offering subtle aromas, grace, elegance, and length of flavor on the palate:
pinots for true believers.
It was difficult in 2004, while 2005 looks to have made some excellent
wines, between 2002 and 2003 in style. It is too early for a definitive
view on 2006 but it looks promising.
