Login | Sign Up

Updated Daily: January 2009

 
  Columns > Koh Yuen Lin > Shut Up and Eat Your Food - The Foie Gras Controversy

   Published in: Issue III of 2006
 
Text Size: GR | GR | GR

Research director at the French Institute for Agricultural Research, Dr. Daniel Guémené, who has been researching the effects force-feeding has on the birds since 1995, tells Steingarten his findings: there is absolutely no rise in the concentration of corticosterone (a stress-related hormone) in the fowl’s bloodstream before and after feeding; while some ducks show minor signs of avoidance, there is no sign of aversion at feeding time. And while the “grossly fattened liver is not natural, it is not a sign of disease; after feeding is stopped and the liver shrinks, there is no necrosis - no liver cells have been killed." As a matter of fact, the mortality rate of fowls bred for foie gras is lower than that of other farmed birds.

Activists crying blue murder over foie gras certainly know none of this - or are choosing not to acknowledge it. That said, commercialized foie gras production can truly be ugly: the fowls are usually kept in tiny cages to minimize movement during the two weeks of intensive gavage and go through mechanized force-feeding during which a machine whizzes almost half a kilogram of food down the duck’s throat in seconds. The bird’s liver reaches the optimum 500g within half the time taken through using artisanal methods. Sold to the masses, it is cheaper by far and, definitely, generates higher returns - never mind the fact that its taste and texture in no way compares to the real McCoy you get from places such as La Ferme des Marchandoux.

 
"As a matter of fact, the mortality rate of fowls bred for foie gras is lower than that of other farmed birds."

The underlying issue of this whole foie gras debate is really the evils of industrialized food production. Just as it is not less cruel to eat veal as it is to eat steak, professing a love for fatty liver makes you no more damned than those who pick factory-end chicken over free-range poultry when doing their supermarketing.

Industrialized food production was said to be the key to feeding a booming world population. However, we have not seen a decline in the number of people suffering from hunger around the globe. And while the initial problem remains unsolved, we now see a new problem: according to University of North Carolina professor Barry Popkin, who reported his findings to the International Association of Agricultural Economists, the number of overweight people has now surpassed the number of starving people worldwide.

In a sense, our problem now is not hunger. Our problem is greed. The greed of those who want more and can pay for it; the greed of corporations who want more of your money and can get more of it.

Industrialization has also seen the popularization of uninspiring foods produced en masse for mindless consumption, and the demise of exclusive artisanal gourmet items crafted for enjoyment. Not only have a huge proportion of city-dwellers lost their sense of where food comes from (ultimately nature, and not a factory), they have also lost the ability to appreciate the effort that is put into what we call "slow food" these days.

The solution is not to ban foods produced by inhumane industrialized methods, because there is no supply without demand. The root of the problem is our constant demand for more, now. How many artisan farmers are there in Kobe still patiently massaging their tiny herd of five kuroge wagyu? And how many ranches are there in Australia and America, breeding monster herds of wagyu cattle? How many Norwegian families are still using artisanal salting and smoking techniques to treat herrings, as compared to factories that can churn out more, and at a lower cost?

Our solution to the problem is not just to find ways and means to make sustainable agriculture economically viable so that those who need the food can be fed, and those who are just plain greedy will not find themselves on the highway to obesity. Our solution is also to re-educate the consumer's perceptions of food. It has become so easily accessible and affordable to the privileged masses that it is no longer appreciated for providing us with sustenance, and for giving us the pleasure of eating.

Only when we know where our foods come from, how they were created, and how they came to our plates, can we truly appreciate food. And only then will the value of artisanal food production be cherished - because food really is not something to be had when you are bored. So I say: Shut up. Eat your food and be thankful.

 
 
 

<< 1 2

 

Koh Yuen Lin was formerly editor of Wine & Dine China. She was a winner of the Asian Cuisine Article of the Year Award at the 2005 World Gourmet Summit. Yuen Lin maintains that while her peers are overachieving, she is just over-eating. She is currently a freelance editor, writer and translator.


Related Articles

Keywords

Gastronomy