The key to wearing this suit well is to have an understanding of its composition and the different types available to best frame your body. The most distinguishing feature of a double-breasted coat is that the panels of the coat overlap significantly at the front. This is called the crossover.
Variations of the double-breasted coat are due mostly to the number of buttons and how they are placed. The six–button is by far the most popular. Of the six buttons that appear on the front, only three are actually fastened . Being the most versatile and classic model, the six-button flatters the bodies of most men, whether they are slim and tall, or otherwise. Later in this article, we will also touch on other styles like the Kent double-breasted, the six-by-two and the eight-by-eight.
Button stance, if you recall from our previous article on 'Single-Breasted Suit', is the visual effect created by the placement of the buttons on the front of a coat. Variations in button stance change the balance of the wearer's look, so it is an important consideration when having a suit made.
Taking the typical six-button double-breasted coat, a square button stance of 4.25 inches (or 10.8 cm) - this is the horizontal or vertical distance between the bottom four buttons - is ideal as a starting point. Of course, taller and more heavily built gentlemen would need to vary this button stance to flatter their respective 'builds' (see picture below). As for the top two decorative buttons, they should be placed the same distance above the bottom four, but slightly wider apart.
The width between the fastening buttons determines the crossover point and thus, the overlap of the two pieces of front panel fabric. If too large, the crossover can make the wearer look wide, so larger men should probably specify a taller, rectangular button stance while lanky men should go for a slightly "over square" stance.
As with the single-breasted suit, the top right button should be positioned roughly half an inch below the natural waist. This button point should be high enough to ensure that the lapel does not gape open when you are sitting.
The lapels of such a suit are always peaked. This creates a sweeping V shape that makes the shoulders appear wider and the waist appear slimmer . This flattering illusion is what makes the double-breasted suit so appealing to those who wear one. It also explains why a straight lapel is inadvisable, as it gives the wearer a "stiff" look.
Lapel width is important for balance, and ideally, should be just over one- third the distance between the neck and the shoulder. Indeed, the lapels of a well-fitting double-breasted suit should stay flat against the wearer's chest at all times – whether he is standing, sitting or moving around – while emphasizing and flattering the form of the chest. This is another reason why a double-breasted suit should always be made bespoke.
An elegant addition is a buttonaire on one or both lapels , but note that only the left buttonaire should be used for displaying flowers.
Similar to a single-breasted suit, the shoulders should be cut such that they end at the deltoids. Again a well-tailored double-breasted coat would possess armholes cut sufficiently high such that the silhouette of the wearer is maintained even when his arm is raised.
Compared to a single-breasted coat, the double-breasted needs to be slightly shorter in length. This is because the more open front quarters of a single-breasted suit gives visual cues to the length of the leg, but in a double-breasted, the front quarters are closed. Thus a shorter length helps in visually 'lengthening' the wearer's legs.
Coat sleeves should show half an inch of the shirt sleeves when standing with arms by your side. The shirt sleeve itself should be about half an inch to one inch below the wrist bone.
Even with the increased fabric of a double-breasted suit, having a high armhole position ensures that the suit does not ride up even with extreme arm movements.
The second and final part of this article (Wearing a Double-Breasted Suit) will be published in April
