By ASHOK SOMAN

Hungary is famous for its highly distinctive Tokaji wines but Royal Somlo founders Peter Csizmadia-Honigh and Omar Honigh-Csizmadia are eager to impress on us that this is not Hungary's only contribution to viticulture.

In fact, they dropped in on Singapore to introduce us to an improbably named wine, Juhfark that, it's worth noting, will not be available for sale for some time yet. According to Peter and Omar, they will use the current 2007 vintage in support of charitable causes and do not have any immediate marketing plans.

At the present time, as far as we can tell, the small group of connoiseurs and press gathered at Coriander Leaf are amongst the fortunate few in the world to experience this intriguing vintage. If nothing else, the 2007 Royal Somlo "J" does a good job in matching the flavors of the Middle Eastern and South Asian cuisine on offer.

Completely unlike Tokaji, Royal Somlo "J" is possesed of unique characteristics that speak to the juhfark grape variant. On the nose, the wine keeps all its secrets but on the palate, it reveals an unexpected depth, spiciness and a rich variety of mineral notes.

Wedded to a remarkably long finish, Royal Somlo "J" is indeed a very special wine that may well be highly sought-after, limited production and the youth of the brand notwithstanding.

Royal Somlo