By ASHOK SOMAN

In an evening of fine food at the Au Jardin Restaurant in Singapore, champagne house Piper-Heidsieck regaled the press and connoisseurs with a selection of bubbly, from Cuvee Brut and Rose Sauvage to Rare Vintage 1999.

Although the Rare Vintage was the star of the show, Piper Heidsieck saved it for last as the brand sought to reveal the quality across their range and the exceptional care they take, even with the Brut. Paired respectively with an exquisite squid carpaccio concoction, which came with its own effervescence, and a ravioli of duck confit, the Cuvee Brut and Rose Sauvage were suitably impressive.

If nothing else, these appetizers paved the way for the rare pleasure that is the Rare Vintage 1999. First of all, let's define Rare as envisioned by Piper Heidsieck. In more than 30 years, only seven years have made the grade to be considered Rare. In fact, from 1976 on, each of these seven years has seen highly unusual weather produce reportedly remarkable vintages.

With regards to the Rare Vintage 1999, it is a delicate blend of chardonnay (70%) and pinot noir (30%) that performs a dance very much like the minuet of old. On the nose it is insidiously floral and paradoxically tropical. On the palate, mineral wealth is plentiful and the bounty of citrusy flavors is faultlessly elegant. The finish is long but, as is almost always the case, not quite long enough.

Piper Heidsieck