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 The Coke hat, otherwise known as the Bowler, was created in 1850 for William Coke, a progressive farmer from Norfolk. Domed, and hardened on the outside by the application of shellac, it was designed primarily for equestrian purposes, with its form-fitting shape ensuring it wouldn't fly off mid-ride. The hardness protected the wearer from low-hanging branches, almost like a helmet. Indeed, to test its sturdiness, William Coke took the prototype, created by Thomas and William Bowler (hence its alternative name), and promptly jumped on it. It survived the impact, and the rest is history. |
To simplify the fitting process for a Coke hat, as well as other hardened hats, a device was invented called the conformateur, which, when put on a customer's head, mapped out in 1/6th scale the exact shape and contour thereof. Interestingly, the device showed – unscientifically, of course – that American heads are slightly larger and longer than British heads.
The enduring appeal of the Coke hat lay in its more moderate level of formality, providing just a hint of the upper-crust Top hat, as well as the casual style of the everyman's soft felt hat. It became symbolic of the age, toward the turn of the 20th century, helped in part by its appearance on Charlie Chaplin's head – or cane – in his seminal motion pictures. The Bowler, Coke, or Derby hat, whatever you wanted to call it, became an icon of the democratic, industrialized, modern new age – a position that unfortunately ceased to be somewhere around the 1960s. |
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| This style of soft, summer hat can trace its roots back to the 1500s, when the Incas used the same Toquila plant used to make Panama hats to weave headgear for themselves. In fact, the hat is almost exclusively made in Ecuador, contrary to its rather misleading name. The name “Panama” came from the workers who used to wear these medium-broad, light-colored, and breathable hats during the construction of the Panama Canal towards the end of the 19th century. |
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| The popularization of the Panama hat is due to its appearance on the heads of British royals at summer parties, and its mid-year appeal remains to this day. So much so, in fact, that this simple, elegant hat commands top dollar at some hatters, such as those in the St. James' area of London. The hat's appeal was also solidified by U.S. President Theodore Roosevelt being photographed wearing such a hat whilst visiting the canal which bore the same name. The Panama hat even appeared on the head of legendary screen villain (or hero, depending on your point of view) Hannibal Lecter.
The hats may look humble, and indeed they very well can be. However, there are extremely fine, hand-woven Panama hats that take up to five months to weave. This is often done under moonlight or overcast skies, the end result being a luxuriously silken texture of weave of which the strands of fiber are nearly imperceptible.
Panamas may come in a variety of shapes, overlapping other styles of hat such as the Fedora or Derby, with varying choices of brim width and style. Ultimately, however, the name has come to embrace all woven, light-colored hats with dark trimmings just above the brim. It is a classic, laidback style that has got a lot of life left in it yet.
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Nothing is more symbolic of the Western world's aristocracy than the Top hat. Its origins are reportedly based in the later part of the Middle Ages, but did not reappear in its current, “stove pipe” shape until the late 18th century. While more or less ubiquitous in the earlier part of that century, it gradually became primarily associated with the British rich, who often wore it to their Gentlemen's clubs along Bond Street and St. James'. |
It also became part of the American high society due in part to President Abraham Lincoln's fondness for stove pipe hats – his being of equal width throughout the shaft, and slightly taller than the traditional British Top hat.
Eventually, as the post-industrial age world became more and more democratic, and the middle class grew, the Top hat fell out of favor, giving way to the more everyday Fedora and Bowler hats. Top hats are now reserved almost exclusively for very special occasions, such as weddings, high society gatherings, and school graduations.
Top hats were generally made, by hand of course, of hardened beaver-fur felt. But the most exclusive and attractive Top hats were made of a special variety of spun silk, which has an absolutely gorgeous luster to it. Unfortunately, however, this silk is no longer available anywhere today, as the kind of worm that yields it has all but disappeared. |
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As such, the best silk Top hats in existence are usually re-bought by expert hatters, such as Lock & Co. of St. James', where they are refurbished to exacting standards – and then re-sold upon application by the very lucky few who are fortunate enough to be able to afford such an exclusive piece of history. 
For further reading, we recommend..
Dressing the Man:
Mastering the Art of Permanent Fashion
by Alan Flusser
Written by a highly respected menswear designer, this book is one of the best primers to anyone
interested in the basics of traditional style for gentlemen. The book introduces the basic principles
of proportion, colour & pattern coordination while illuminating how best to wear each item of clothing
like shirts, suits or shoes.
Essential reading for a fan of the sartorial arts.
Browse
this book at www.amazon.com
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Text and Photography AMIR ALI
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