If The Shoe Fits: Bespoke Footwear by Pierre Corthay

Made-to-measure shoes are like works of art: they’re personal, unique and absolutely beautiful. D’Arcy Flueck gives us a glimpse into the seductive appeal of Pierre Corthay’s creations – and the man himself.

Published in: October 2007

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And just how has men's shoemaking evolved in the face of changing fashions over the last 25 years? Says Corthay: "Men's tastes in shoes have grown in sophistication. In the past, they had black shoes and brown ones; those with small holes, and without. But today, men desire diversity in form, color and materials."

"One could have a very restrained color on the outside while having a much wilder one on the inside, and only the owner and those close to him would ever know about it."

Corthay's own tastes tend to run to the super luxurious – he confesses to a distinct fondness for working with exotic skins such as crocodile, especially in vivid colors. This is probably influenced by his passion for contemporary art: "I'm fascinated by color, particularly the connection between disparate colors. Often, I play with the color of the lining, which I like to offset from the top of the shoe. It creates an interesting dialogue between the interior and exterior, so one could have a restrained color on the outside while having a much wilder one inside, but only the owner and those close to him would ever know about it."

This pervading sense of discretion is obvious during a trip to the Corthay atelier, which lies minutes away from Place Vendôme. Tucked away in a corner, this cozy setting houses both the workspace and showroom, thus offering fascinating glimpses into the soul of the brand.

Men feel comfortable coming alone for a fitting, which is often conducted over a drink or cigar. "Our clients appreciate this close connection with the creator, which enables a real exchange to develop. For me, the idea of luxury goes beyond the price of an object. Above all, luxury is the ability to make time."

More recently, Pierre Corthay has made the time to collaborate with celebrated Japanese fashion designer, Yohji Yamamoto. "Asian civilizations have a great tradition of craftsmanship, especially a respect and admiration for the craftsmen who sustain their knowledge as part of their daily existence," says Corthay.

"Yamamoto is a brilliant example. They decided to create a classic line, which would be more wearable for the businessman in pursuit of modernity. So they reached out to the best companies in each specialty. They chose us for shoes, McIntosh for overcoats and a renowned Neapolitan tailor for their suits. This typifies a very Japanese willingness in their pursuit of quality and humility."

For Corthay, the partnership with Yamamoto is yet another stepping stone on the road to wider recognition and expansion. In 2004, he opened three stores in Japan – in Tokyo, Osaka and Fukuoka – with all three offering his unrivalled bespoke services. In July this year, he started offering his services through leading New York store Bergdorf Goodman, marking his first North American venture. And this month, he will be launching an exclusive ready-to-wear line at Parisian luxury men’s store Arny's.

Despite his recent foray into the global market and the much-warranted recognition he has received, this master craftsman remains humble: "I love everything about my craft, and really appreciate the creative aspect and the human contact that I have thanks to my work. I want to continue creating for real people."

What more could one ask for? As the adage goes, "If the shoe fits, wear it."

For further reading, we recommend..

Dressing the Man:
Mastering the Art of Permanent Fashion

by Alan Flusser

Written by a highly respected menswear designer, this book is one of the best primers to anyone interested in the basics of traditional style for gentlemen. The book introduces the basic principles of proportion, colour & pattern coordination while illuminating how best to wear each item of clothing like shirts, suits or shoes.

Essential reading for a fan of the sartorial arts.

Browse this book at www.amazon.com