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Mushroom King – Chef Regis Marcon

Three Michelin Star Chef Regis Marcon, in Singapore for the World Gourmet Summit, tells us about his passion for fungi and why he will never abandon his hometown

Published in: April 2009

1. You are widely known by the moniker “Mushroom King”, and mushrooms feature heavily in your menu. What is it about these fungi that captivates/fascinates you?

I grew up in a small French rural town called St. Bonnet (in the Auvergne region) where there were many seasonal ingredients available from the wild. Different types of mushrooms are readily available in the local market and even in the mountains and they are full of flavors.

I love walking in the wild and discovering the ingredients for my cooking.

I always like to use these local mushrooms from my region to bring out their rich flavors for different types of dishes from my imagination.

2. The Bocuse d'Or is widely seen as the World Cup – the Holy Grail of Gastronomic Achievement – and you have won it, representing France in 1995. What are the secrets of your success? And what would you like to say to aspiring chefs, who are vying for this coveted prize?

I just wanted to create something which can please people. I was also thinking about people I loved during the competition: my father who passed away when I was very young, my mother who made a lot of sacrifices and my wife who always supported me unconditionally.

For me, my guests’ reaction to my food is very important and I take a great pleasure in receiving a positive reaction from the people who try my food.

3. You have achieved international fame as a Michelin-decorated chef, and author of many award-winning cookbooks. With this impressive CV, you could have gone on to open a string of restaurants carrying the Régis Marcon name, like your French compatriots Alain Ducasse, Daniel Boulud, Jean-Georges Vongerichten and Pierre Gagnaire, just to name a few. Why have you chosen otherwise?

I love my village Saint-Bonnet-le-Froid. That’s where I was born and where my family has been living for a long time. I like using the ingredients from the local area, especially mushrooms. I never had any ambition to turn my small family restaurant into a Michelin starred one. It naturally happened while I had been working hard with my wife Michelle to please my guests. I see no reason to leave my town. I can also have a good interaction with people from the world who come to my restaurants.

4. Having said that, would you consider or are there already plans for new restaurants carrying the Marcon name in the pipeline?

I cannot say too much about it at this moment, but it will be in Japan.

5. You have traveled extensively in Asia, and cooked at several distinguished locations. Can you describe some of your more recent experiences?

It was Nagano Japan in 2008. I really enjoyed the hot springs. I really liked the fresh and healthy Japanese cuisine and was inspired to integrate this into my cuisine.

6. Which Asian country has left the deepest impression?

Cambodia. I have been supporting a local school and visit the country every six months. The people there are lovely and very genuine.

7. And which cuisine are you most fascinated with? Have you adapted any elements of these Asian cuisines you have experienced into your own?

Vietnamese cuisine. The influence from China and Thailand to their cuisine is very interesting and they use lots of fresh local ingredients.

I think Asian cuisine is very health-conscious and I like the philosophy of wellbeing in relation to certain health benefit.

8. It’s 30 years since you first started the Auberge et Clos de Cimes. Looking back over these 30 years, how has the cuisine, the style of cooking and the Régis Marcon experience evolved to what it is today?

My style of cooking has become closer to nature. In the earlier period, my style used to be very rich and local. However, as I got to travel around the world and experience different styles of international cuisine, my boundaries has expanded. I used to cook manually by following the recipes, but now I can experiment with the ingredients to put more identity into my own cuisine.

9. Can you describe significant milestones or factors that have helped shape the Régis Marcon of today?

It is my village St. Bonnet le Froid. It used to be a little village without much attraction. However, as my restaurant started gaining attention from the outside world, the village also grew. It has been very fascinating to see the positive energy in my town grow.

Text LAWRENCE TAN

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