Origins
Buson's 18th century haiku loses much of its poignancy without an understanding
of the significance of fugu, commonly known as blowfish or puffer fish. Contemporary
connoisseurs consider the delicate flesh of the fugu to be amongst the most exquisite
and exotic experiences to be had anywhere. On the flipside, fugu has a deadly
reputation rooted in fact.
The puffer fish gets its name from the fish's natural instinct to puff itself
into a ball, in some cases, with protruding spines, when provoked or threatened.
In the case of the Japanese name, the kanji characters for fugu literally
translate as “river pig”. Though the fish can be found in oceans around
the world, they typically like to congregate in brackish waters at the mouths
of rivers.
Fugu has featured in Japanese literature and has been romanticized in haikus,
as we have seen. For centuries, the Japanese have consumed the fish. Historical
records show that fugu was a popular dish during the Tokugawa and Meiji periods
(1603 – 1912) and was briefly banned by the authorities during both periods.
The Bureau of Social Welfare and Public Health in Tokyo documents about 315
reported cases of fugu poisoning between 1996 and 2005, of which 31 were fatal.
The most famous fatality reported was the result of illegal and improper serving
of the fish. Kabuki actor Mitsugoro Bando VIII died after eating four servings
of fugu liver in January 1975.
In fact, many species of puffer fish are perfectly safe for human consumption.
Of the more than 100 species of puffers worldwide, about 38 are found in Japan,
and 22 of them are edible.
It is believed that fugu gets its poison from the shell-fish consumed in the
natural environment. A large part of this poison, known as tetrodotoxin, collects
in the fish's liver and ovaries, thereby making these parts the most lethal. This
means that fugu can be farmed to render them safe for consumption by regulating
their diet. Studies undertaken by Japanese scientists have shown this to be true.
Shimonoseki, a port city in southwestern Japan which has earned the moniker
of Fugu City, accounts for most of Japan's fugu exports to restaurants around
the world, and half of Japan's fugu market.
Fishermen bring in their live catches to Shimonoseki, where expert and licensed
workers skillfully gut and clean the fish before shipping them to restaurants
throughout Japan or to overseas markets.
What this means is that the fugu that lands on your plate at a fugu restaurant
in Japan is as harmless as the ubiquitous salmon sashimi from a Japanese restaurant
in Manhattan, New York.
What Makes Fugu Special?
To the Japanese, fugu's allure lies in what they call a special umami – a
clean and sweet taste, not a death-defying experience.The meat is texturally both
crunchy and chewy – a sensational property the Japanese describe as shiko
shiko. They also prize the fish for its seasonality, as it is typically consumed
in winter. In theory, highly skilled fugu chefs are able to prepare the fugu in
such a way that only a minute trace of the poison remains – enough to cause
a shibireru, or numbing sensation of the lips and cheeks. This sensation
is part of the allure of fugu. We say ‘in theory' because the farmed fugu
available at restaurants is as safe as any other fish.
A single fish can easily fetch between US$50 and US$150 at a wholesale fish
market in Japan, depending on the variety – the costliest of which is a
prime tora or “tiger” fugu. A complete meal at a decent Japanese restaurant
can cost upwards of US$200 per head (or more than 20,000 yen). Because fugu is
high in protein, low in calories, and rich in taurine (found in energy drinks)
and inosinic acid (which aids metabolism), it has high nutritional value. Its
high collagen concentration should come as welcome news to women who desire beautiful
skin. But those who are MSG-intolerant may not find fugu palatable, as the fish
has high levels of glutamic acid.
How Is Fugu Prepared
In Japan, restaurants that tout the fish on their menus require their chefs
to be exam-certified with a “fugu license”. Essentially, this consists
of a written exam in which applicants identify and differentiate the fugu species,
separate traditionally toxic and non-toxic parts of the fish. These aspiring fugu
chefs are also assessed on their proficiency in gutting and cleaning the puffers
by a board of health inspectors.
Chefs who graduate the grueling course with flying colors receive certificates
that are displayed at their respective restaurants. Traditionally, the chefs remove
the fugu's innards and eyes using a fugu-hiki knife. Fins and tails are
cut off but not thrown away. These later come in handy in the preparation of fugu
hire-zake, which we shall cover in greater detail later.
Fugu Dishes
Served sashimi style, called fugu-sashi, with grated white radish,
chives and limed-flavored ponzu sauce, fugu sashimi is probably the freshest sashimi
you will ever taste. Ironically, the transparent shreds of fish are usually arranged
in concentric circles to resemble a chrysanthemum. The chrysanthemum is the official
seal of the Japanese emperor, the only person forbidden by law to this day from
eating fugu.
Fugu can also be eaten in a hot-pot style, or fugu-chiri. The pieces
of fish are simmered in konbu dashi broth with tofu, vegetables, mushrooms
and seaweed, and dipped in ponzu sauce. Then there's fried fugu ribs,
or fugu karaage. The ribs are chopped up, mixed with flour, deep-fried,
and seasoned with salt. Rounding off the entrées is fugu-nabe,
a porridge made with fugu remnants minus the innards and flesh, and served in
a claypot with raw eggs, watercress, cabbage and chives. More adventurous diners
can opt for the fugu's milt, or shira-ko, known amongst fugu connoisseurs
as the crème de la crème of fugu. The shira-ko refers to
the fugu's sperm sac, which, owing to the fish's spawning season in early spring,
is an exotic treat, and a supposed aphrodisiac. It is usually eaten raw or lightly
grilled.
Finally, fugu hire-zake, made by brewing smoked fugu tails and fins
in hot sake, completes the meal, and the entire fugu experience.
