When we put together our previous article on stealth wealth watches, we knew there was a strong possibility that scouring the Geneva watch fairs would yield more such sober fruit. One might say that after the success of excesses that birthed the world’s luxury conglomerates, the time is right for a little introspection and sobriety. Yet the industry is not simply eschewing bubbly champagne for prosaic soda pops. In other words, it has not given up on creativity to just produce round watches.

There was talk at the fairs of a return to more classical shapes, with some brand executives suggesting that anything other than a round watch would be a tough sell. Even so, brands that have never made a round watch dispute this, with MB&F being a case in point. Max Busser, the boss of MB&F, told us that his watches continue to sell and have even drawn interest from markets that he has not currently explored.

Truth be told, even round watches can be extreme, as Richard Mille demonstrated with the RM025. With this in mind, we present five brand new stealth watches, the majority of which are – surprise, surprise – not round.