Loewe gets reboot thanks to Creative Director JW Anderson

 

Spanish brand Loewe gets a dramatic reboot, thanks to the left-field hire of new creative director J.W. Anderson. When J.W. Anderson was announced as Loewe’s creative director in September 2014, many were surprised. The 29-year-old Irish-born designer is best known for the abstract, gender-bending clothes he makes under his fledgling eponymous label. Bags are hardly part of his repertoire, yet bags are the apotheosis of Loewe’s heritage. Its best-selling signature style, the boxy Amazona tote, has been around since 1975 and, despite the numerous facelifts, has stayed mostly true to its original form.

Anderson has wasted little time since taking the helm. One of his first moves was to revamp the logo with help from It design collective M/M Paris. The previously antique-looking typeface is now replaced by one that’s inspired by the bold fonts of late calligrapher Berthold Wolpe. The house insignia, introduced in 1970 and made up of four clustering Ls, has been streamlined – the result is modern, while paying tribute to the leather branding iron it originated from. Anderson’s game plan: to cleverly repackage Loewe’s past and in turn highlight its ability to connect with the times. This is seen in his debut campaign, which juxtaposes images of his modernist-influenced designs with those from the label’s yesteryear: a 1997 editorial by Steven Meisel; a group shot of all the branding logo stamps used from 1970 to 2000. If not for the dates listed as if the pictures were artworks, they could all pass off as new.

But the mark of a worthy successor at any brand isn’t simply to keep existing customers, but also to attract new ones – and Anderson has done so with his ready-to-wear collection. His first, Men’s S/S ’15 (revealed in Paris in June), is a thoughtful mix of his own and the brand’s classic aesthetics. For the more adventurous, there are gender-neutral ponchos, tunics and asymmetrical scarf tops. For everyone else, there are tees, trendy sweaters and fail-proof suits.

Read the full story at Female.

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