Stefano Pilati Exits Ermenegildo Zegna

Italian fashion house Ermenegildo Zegna confirmed rumors yesterday that its head of design Stefano Pilati is leaving the Maison, joining two other Italian men’s houses to lose its designer in a week. Rumor has it that Pilati, who was previously head designer at Yves Saint Laurent from 2004 to 2012, is being considered for the currently vacant creative director post at Lanvin, since Alber Elbaz’s firing in October.

Referring to Mr. Pilati’s departure, Gildo Zegna, the chief executive of the Zegna Group, said in a statement, “We wanted to develop a strong point of view in fashion, and for Zegna to be a show not to miss in Milan. We have reached this objective faster than expected.”

The house recently launched its Fall/Winter 2016 couture collection at the Milano Moda Uomo, featuring fabrics embellished with three dimensional hand embroideries made in Italy, jacquard woven patchwork and ornamental motifs. The couture collection is Pilati’s last for the Maison.

Pilati’s exit is strongly evocative of that time when Alexander Wang bade his goodbyes to Balenciaga last July and when Raf Simons upped and left Dior in October. And, just this week, Italian men’s wear brand Brioni announced that it will not renew its working collaboration with Brendan Mullane, its creative director, in “a joint decision”.

Is three years the trend before moving on? Will big fashion houses no longer be defined by just one designer, but a stretch of many? Pilati’s latest exit seems to be fuelling this fervent new speculation, or is it all really just a happy coincidence?

Pilati Exits Zegna

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